Blueberries are relatively easy to grow, and the catch is that you can expect a certain amount of harvest even when grown freely, but the main reason is that it’s convenient for potting and potting as it has The roots are shallow, and Even when the tree becomes a tree, it doesn’t take up space compared to other fruit trees.
The figure below shows the farming schedule.
The main points for choosing a variety of blueberries
The most important thing you need to know before you start growing blueberries, it seems like a lot of people fail or fail here.
There are many varieties of blueberries. Even if you look at the subtree category, you can see that the katakanas are neatly lined up and there is obviously too much information. It seems that some people have not touched it yet because they do not know which one to choose.
The cultivated lines of blueberries can be easily classified into two categories: “high-dust blueberry” and “rabbit-eyed blueberry”.
The shrubs are highly cold tolerant and considered to be vulnerable to heat.
On the other hand, rabbit eye breeds are heat resistant and tend to get cold easily.
Furthermore, “High Bush” is divided into two systems, “Northern (Northern) High Bush” and “Southern (Southern) High Bush”. This is the distinction between the northern and southern varieties of the country of origin in the US.
Basically, high bush means “northern high bush”. It is the most common strain with many varieties. However, as noted above, it is susceptible to heat.
“Southern High Bush” was born to make high quality “Northern High Bush” even in the hot southern part.
In Japan, the Northern High Bush can be grown in Tohoku and Hokkaido.
The southern tall shrub is also suitable in western Japan, but the rabbit-eyed plant is recommended for its ease of planting.
You must have at least two plants to pollute. There are many opinions that blueberries are fruitless, but most of them have only one and two identical.
If you want to have a rabbit’s eye plant, choose two or more different varieties from the line of the rabbit’s eye tree.
Notes when growing blueberries
The next common failure is land reclamation during planting.
The most special thing to keep in mind when growing blueberries is the proper soil pH is low. A suitable pH for other vegetables and fruit trees is typically around 6.5 to 7.0, but the appropriate pH for blueberries is pH 4.3 to 4.8 for high shrubs and pH 4 , 5 for rabbits, relatively easy to grow. With 5.5, it becomes a strongly acidic soil.
Since Japanese soils tend to be acidic, strongly alkaline materials such as lime are used in general crop farming, but blueberries use a large amount of strongly acidic material known as “algae. peet “.
① Dig a planting hole that is 40 to 50 cm deep.
(2) Mix 30 liters of peat moss and 50 liters of organic matter such as rice husks and debris into the excavated and backfill soil. Pete moss is an expensive material, but if you can afford it, it is safer to increase the number of pete moss.
③ Sprinkle the seedlings’ roots and fix them in a position that is not too deep. At this point I will also insert a splic.
④ Cover the rest of the soil up high and water a large amount of water to keep the roots of the plant in contact with the soil.
It is a fruit tree that is easy to grow. It can be said that if it is not good to choose varieties and to improve the soil, it can be harvested even if left alone.
I think few people are dissatisfied with the development of own base fertilizer.
In the case of 8-8-8 organic fertilizer (the numbers indicate nitrogen, phosphate and potassium content), about 150 grams per year for field crops, blueberries are in low demand fruit crops. significantly more.
Approximately 100 grams of fertilizer as a base fertilizer during the mid to late-March pre-flowering period. The main purpose is to support the rapid growth from May to June shown in the graph of the farming calendar.
Fertilizer, applied mid to late May, about 30 grams to promote fruit enlargement and to help differentiate flower buds (flowering next year) takes place in August.
Since the nutrients that are in reserve for flowering and shoot formation next April will be stored in the fall, approximately 20 grams of fertilizer will be added in August for the initial growth of the following year.
Tips for harvesting and pruning blueberries
Ideally, every day is the time to harvest, but must be harvested at least every 5 days. Blueberries are ripe one at a time, so harvest them one at a time. The optimum harvest time is 5 to 7 days after all pods turn blue. If harvested while the pink color is still intact, it does not have enough sugar and has a strong sour feeling.
When harvested in time, just pinch lightly by hand to harvest.
Blueberries are particularly fond of organic soils.
During the fall season, mulch (ground cover) with organic matter such as compost at the base of the plant.
Pruning blueberries is easy.
Essentially, dead branches and overly strong branches (such as “soccer” created from the ground and “shot” created from the trunk) are prioritized for removal from the base. The buds that are difficult to cling to branches have too much momentum and nutrients are only given priority to those branches, and the nutrients do not go to the other branches that should have produced good fruit.
However, without soccer, shoots mean a problem with the plant’s nutritional status. It does not appear 3 to 4 years after planting, but if after the 5th year the buds still do not appear, increase the amount of fertilizer or prune all the bush-shaped branches to restore vitality. I will try.
It also removes weak drooping branches.
Shaded introverted branches are thinned and pruned during the restful sleep period when the leaves fall so that the interior of the entire tree is transparent, cool and sunny.
It seems transparent enough without leaves, but let’s cut it as each bud will sprout new shoots and the leaves will develop.
Figure shows the “fruitful habit” of blueberries. The flower buds are concentrated at the ends of weak branches, so pay attention not to remove all the flower buds. When pruning, you should decide which branch to trim with a routine of results. The buds of the kumquat plant are plump compared to the leaf buds for easy identification.
Above is how to grow kumquat. If you don’t make a mistake in growing blueberries, you will be able to manage your cultivation later. If you think the growth is not good, you should measure whether the pH can be maintained.