What is hidden in Orašani not far from Sokolski krši

We have just begun the story of the Kosiers. In Ploča at the foot of Debeljak, with Vlado Mitrov Radović, I break out on a rocky ridge. He points to the bottom of the rock. Well, there was a church here, he says. I approach closer and see the remains of a dry-stone place of worship located on a small clearing next to the rock.

Ancient dry-border church in Ploča at the foot of Debeljak in Kosijeri

The entrance is from the west. The rock forms the entire side (north) side of the temple. The opposite (south) side is built of irregular stone blocks, some of which are almost a meter long. The church is miniature – four by two meters. The table of honor is still standing. Here, too, there is no apse on the altar (eastern) part, just as there is none on other adjacent places of worship – in Gospoštine or Podsokol.

Studenac

We stay there a little longer and then we move sideways towards the spring Studenac, which emerges from the cave at the very foot of Debeljak. It was fenced and built in 1882. It seemed to me that the water was “delicious”. Until the 1979 earthquake, it was much more abundant. The remains of a large mill, about a hundred meters down the side, speak of that. There is a swimming pool nearby where I find the same “idyllic” situation as at the Resnja restaurant on Sinjački krši. And here on the surface floats a frog couple in a love game, uninterested in the rest of the world. On the back of a huge female, a three to four times smaller male rests. We’re heading back soon. There were many more puzzles waiting for us.

The field is valid

After Ploče and Studenac, we descend towards Velja njiva, on the side towards Debeljak. Here a larger belt of fertile land is spread, interspersed here and there with low rocks. The old road “Ober” leads to a lower hill, on which stands an unusual stone. This is your holy table, says Vlado. The irregular stone square, resembling a stećak, is located alone in the clearing, like an “altar” in the open.

“Holy table” on Velja njiva in Kosijerski korit

In the nearby forest there are walls affected by shrubs. In fact, it is difficult to find a village in these parts where there are no such scenes. The difference is that the housings can be folding and dry. Dry borders can again be made of smaller or larger, block areas. This second type is probably the oldest.

Tumuli

Not far from the “holy table” are Rogulje, where two prehistoric stone piles are hidden. One is about two meters high and has about ten meters at the base. These are clear traces of the Bronze Age population, which extend deep into the hilly hinterland. There are them everywhere along the route of the old road, which, presumably, has led here since prehistoric times.

Garden on Bršeć

The prehistoric hillfort above the Kosijerski korit, on Bršeć near Kupuljar, in a dominant position, also points to the distant past. Near it, at the same height, is Baljev ubao. Vlado says that he was “dug in rot to hold water better”. By “rot” is meant clay. In ancient times, this type of land was a technological precondition for making plots, because there was no other possibility. He adds that it is said about the fort on Bršeć that Ivan Crnojević wanted to build a fort there, but that he gave up because there was no water.

A similar story is related to Krivi vrh near Gradac in Lješanska nahija. Janko Uskoković writes in 1886 that “Stevan Crnojević started building a city there”, but that “as the story goes, this building was interrupted because there was no running (living) water”. In 1911, Andrija Jovićević recorded another, slightly different, legend, related to the prehistoric hillfort in Čukovići. “They say that Ivan Crnojević wanted the city to be built there, and that many stones were brought there because of that.” Here again, we have the popular tendency to attribute (almost) everything to Ivanbeg, even though he comes from a very distant age. The dry fort on Bršeć is much older than the time of Crnojević and testifies to the ancient importance of this area.

Mulberry

We return to Kosijerska Glavica near the Government House, where an ancient mulberry tree stands nearby, at the bottom of which lies a square stone. Fifteen meters away, along the middle, grows an old vine. This is the white vine that Saint Peter blessed. And that mulberry will eat you. On that stone. How old is that tree, I ask. About 500 years, he fights back. I look at the mulberry. The tree is completely hollow.

Ancient mulberry and the stone “on which Saint Peter sat”

And yet he is releasing shoots, Vlado continues. They say that the bishop here wanted to curse one, so one of the people who were there asked him not to do so. St. Peter then said that they should bring him a bunch from that vine, and when he tasted a few grains, he said: May the root always be from you! And here it is still giving birth to this day.

Treasury

This is just part of what I heard from the Government during those two days. It didn’t take me long to realize that he kept the whole treasury in his head. I told him at the beginning that I could not guess all the stories he knew, and that because of that it would be best if he commented aloud on the kosier details, and I will follow him carefully. He was glad to ask him. It was clear to him from the beginning that he had nothing to do with the lazy visitor of Sokolski krši and Soko-grad.

At the end of the second day, after the strong bush we broke through, he said to me: “Well, I wouldn’t do this anymore, so I don’t know who would come to me!”

All this was very hard for the Government and I owe him gratitude for that. A few years ago, he severely damaged his leg from the fire and has had dozens of surgeries since then. Later, in Vukić Pulević’s book “Onomastic Montenegrin Studies” (ICJK, 2012), I saw that Vlado is mentioned as a narrator of folklore, which is a key factor in recording folk treasures.

Fireplace

Vlad’s wife Slavka greets us in front of the house. He asks if we are tired. He cares about the government. The house has a classic Montenegrin ambience. It consists of one large room, about fourteen meters long and six or seven meters wide.

Vlado Mitrov Radović near the fireplace in his home

There is a fireplace in one part. There are tables around him. Each is different. Like an exhibition. It is pleasant and spacious. Nice sitter and story. While we are drinking coffee, Vlado makes a story about the people of Orašje. He says that the church there is very old and that it is not known when it originated. He also mentions the ancient graves around it. He recounts how his relatives once “walked in the cold of ce”, so someone said: “Let’s open a tomb”. “And they removed the stone armor, and a skeleton appeared! And imagine those foot tubes now. This much! ”

As he hands me the size of my bones, I don’t blink. Slavka equally participates in the story and approves of every word of her man.

“It was a monstrosity,” Vlado continues.

When was that, I ask.

“He is 60-65 years old. I was a kid, but I was a tuna. Those were some colossi of people. Silence! Once in the jaw, every tooth was healthy. He was over two meters tall. Uncle Savo, who was two meters tall, measured the bone on his legs and crossed his shin 3-4 centimeters “.

Vlado is in narrative heat, I am in fire. It seems to me that at that moment the fire started.

What are we going to do, I ask. I need to see it as soon as possible. ‘

And when would you?

Me right now as far as I’m concerned!

Vlado looks at me for a few moments. I interrupted him at work today. He wanted to plant a tuber, but he left it all behind because of me and Kosier’s past. He looks at me a little longer, then says. You know what! Come this morning, and we’ll go there.

‘I want God so, I retaliate. There I am about nine.

We hung out a little more, and then I left for Podgorica. It was just like I was flying on a carpet over Old Montenegro

Staying with history

What about Francisco Choek from “One Hundred Years of Solitude”? Vlado did not tell me about the “colossi” in order to impress me (and even if he did!), But because the story of the past is at the very core of our being. Gadamer has long taught us that tradition carries us in its bosom. Narrative basically means evoking and “alienating” through a deep intimacy with history – through which we learn more about ourselves. And we get better.

I secured myself three times that night upon my return from Kosijer to arrive at the agreed hour. Moreover, I got up earlier, as if I were going to a ceremony. It was as if I had a hunch that something significant was going to happen. I set off an hour and a half earlier via Meteriz, Češljar, Đalac and Štitar. I stopped at the beginning of Đinović to make better pictures of Veprulja in the morning sun. And they turned out really well. Saša Čilikov told me that Lazar Pejović traveled at night to Berane only to take pictures of Đurđe’s Pillars in the morning light.

Ćeraza

I arrive in Kosijere before nine. The Radovics have been on their feet for a long time. We drink coffee and talk. It’s time to move. Vlado has been taking a kosier since he did not separate for those two days. We go uphill on the west side of Kupuljara, along the asphalt road towards Mikulići, Tomići and Orašani. We climb the serpentines for about ten minutes, and then break out into Frašenac over the pass. Then we descend a few kilometers and turn towards Orašani, the road that leads to Sokolski krši from the west. After two hundred meters Vlado tells me to stop. Next to the road is a larger excavation-maidan. Well, this is where Ivan Crnojević took the mill for Soko-grad from. Because, he has no choice but to take it out without resistance, says Vlado.

What is the name of this place?

Yesterday, he retaliates. He then explains to me that “mulina is humus, the sand is fine and yellowish.” “It was used to make cakes,” he says. “Klak is mixed lime with muline.”

Ždrvnji

We descend a few hundred meters and reach Seliste, the hamlet of Orasana. We stop next to a larger stone house. That part is called Dardaza. Vlado leads me to the other side of that building, where the remains of several buildings, blackened with age, are located. He shows me large hewn blocks around the front door. “My grandmother brought all this on the ropes. She had three breasts. ” He then shows an object in which there were “grinders” – grinders with which people ground by hand. “It simply came to our notice then. We wait until it is ground by hand. “

Wicker

We continue towards the other side of the road, where the main part of the settlement is. Everything is well overgrown with bushes. Vlado says that the church is on that side as well. That news lifts my spirits. It almost makes my stomach hot. Because, this is where what I hope could be hidden. The missing element that would complete the “chain”. The remains of the settlement extend in the form of a semicircle. We break through the old village road, through the branches, along the very edge of the hill. We pass a few enclosures, then through the bushes again. We walked more than a hundred meters. This seems like an eternity to me.

Church

We finally arrive at the other end of the settlement. Well, that’s where your church is, says Vlado. A wave of “electricity” passes along my spine, so it climbs all the way to my temples. I radiate. As I slowly turn my gaze in the direction of the church, I squeeze into the “inner guard.” But it is not seen well, for a larger bush has been obstructed in that direction. I walk around it and look up slightly. Ahhhh! In front of the entrance, at a distance of three or four meters, I see the rest of the masonry supporting pillar. Another church from the time of Stefanica Crnojević! A stone falls from my heart. So a wave of energy sweeps over me again. Vlado, man, are you aware…

(Twenty-third sequel in next Sunday’s issue)

Gallery

1 / 5 Photo: Slobodan Čukić

We have just begun the story of the Kosiers. In Ploča at the foot of Debeljak, with Vlado Mitrov Radović, I break out on a rocky ridge. He points to the bottom of the rock. Well, there was a church here, he says. I approach closer and see the remains of a dry-stone place of worship located on a small clearing next to the rock.

Ancient dry-border church in Ploča at the foot of Debeljak in Kosijeri

The entrance is from the west. The rock forms the entire side (north) side of the temple. The opposite (south) side is built of irregular stone blocks, some of which are almost a meter long. The church is miniature – four by two meters. The table of honor is still standing. Here, too, there is no apse on the altar (eastern) part, just as there is none on other adjacent places of worship – in Gospoštine or Podsokol.

Studenac

We stay there a little longer and then we move sideways towards the spring Studenac, which emerges from the cave at the very foot of Debeljak. It was fenced and built in 1882. It seemed to me that the water was “delicious”. Until the 1979 earthquake, it was much more abundant. The remains of a large mill, about a hundred meters down the side, speak of that. There is a swimming pool nearby where I find the same “idyllic” situation as at the Resnja restaurant on Sinjački krši. And here on the surface floats a frog couple in a love game, uninterested in the rest of the world. On the back of a huge female, a three to four times smaller male rests. We’re heading back soon. There were many more puzzles waiting for us.

The field is valid

After Ploče and Studenac, we descend towards Velja njiva, on the side towards Debeljak. Here a larger belt of fertile land is spread, interspersed here and there with low rocks. The old road “Ober” leads to a lower hill, on which stands an unusual stone. This is your holy table, says Vlado. The irregular stone square, resembling a stećak, is located alone in the clearing, like an “altar” in the open.

“Holy table” on Velja njiva in Kosijerski korit

In the nearby forest there are walls affected by shrubs. In fact, it is difficult to find a village in these parts where there are no such scenes. The difference is that the housings can be folding and dry. Dry borders can again be made of smaller or larger, block areas. This second type is probably the oldest.

Tumuli

Not far from the “holy table” are Rogulje, where two prehistoric stone piles are hidden. One is about two meters high and has about ten meters at the base. These are clear traces of the Bronze Age population, which extend deep into the hilly hinterland. There are them everywhere along the route of the old road, which, presumably, has led here since prehistoric times.

Garden on Bršeć

The prehistoric hillfort above the Kosijerski korit, on Bršeć near Kupuljar, in a dominant position, also points to the distant past. Near it, at the same height, is Baljev ubao. Vlado says that he was “dug in rot to hold water better”. By “rot” is meant clay. In ancient times, this type of land was a technological precondition for making plots, because there was no other possibility. He adds that it is said about the fort on Bršeć that Ivan Crnojević wanted to build a fort there, but that he gave up because there was no water.

A similar story is related to Krivi vrh near Gradac in Lješanska nahija. Janko Uskoković writes in 1886 that “Stevan Crnojević started building a city there”, but that “as the story goes, this building was interrupted because there was no running (living) water”. In 1911, Andrija Jovićević recorded another, slightly different, legend, related to the prehistoric hillfort in Čukovići. “They say that Ivan Crnojević wanted the city to be built there, and that many stones were brought there because of that.” Here again, we have the popular tendency to attribute (almost) everything to Ivanbeg, even though he comes from a very distant age. The dry fort on Bršeć is much older than the time of Crnojević and testifies to the ancient importance of this area.

Mulberry

We return to Kosijerska Glavica near the Government House, where an ancient mulberry tree stands nearby, at the bottom of which lies a square stone. Fifteen meters away, along the middle, grows an old vine. This is the white vine that Saint Peter blessed. And that mulberry will eat you. On that stone. How old is that tree, I ask. About 500 years, he fights back. I look at the mulberry. The tree is completely hollow.

Ancient mulberry and the stone “on which Saint Peter sat”

And yet he is releasing shoots, Vlado continues. They say that the bishop here wanted to curse one, so one of the people who were there asked him not to do so. St. Peter then said that they should bring him a bunch from that vine, and when he tasted a few grains, he said: May the root always be from you! And here it is still giving birth to this day.

Treasury

This is just part of what I heard from the Government during those two days. It didn’t take me long to realize that he kept the whole treasury in his head. I told him at the beginning that I could not guess all the stories he knew, and that because of that it would be best if he commented aloud on the kosier details, and I will follow him carefully. He was glad to ask him. It was clear to him from the beginning that he had nothing to do with the lazy visitor of Sokolski krši and Soko-grad.

At the end of the second day, after the strong bush we broke through, he said to me: “Well, I wouldn’t do this anymore, so I don’t know who would come to me!”

All this was very hard for the Government and I owe him gratitude for that. A few years ago, he severely damaged his leg from the fire and has had dozens of surgeries since then. Later, in Vukić Pulević’s book “Onomastic Montenegrin Studies” (ICJK, 2012), I saw that Vlado is mentioned as a narrator of folklore, which is a key factor in recording folk treasures.

Fireplace

Vlad’s wife Slavka greets us in front of the house. He asks if we are tired. He cares about the government. The house has a classic Montenegrin ambience. It consists of one large room, about fourteen meters long and six or seven meters wide.

Vlado Mitrov Radović near the fireplace in his home

There is a fireplace in one part. There are tables around him. Each is different. Like an exhibition. It is pleasant and spacious. Nice sitter and story. While we are drinking coffee, Vlado makes a story about the people of Orašje. He says that the church there is very old and that it is not known when it originated. He also mentions the ancient graves around it. He recounts how his relatives once “walked in the cold of ce”, so someone said: “Let’s open a tomb”. “And they removed the stone armor, and a skeleton appeared! And imagine those foot tubes now. This much! ”

As he hands me the size of my bones, I don’t blink. Slavka equally participates in the story and approves of every word of her man.

“It was a monstrosity,” Vlado continues.

When was that, I ask.

“He is 60-65 years old. I was a kid, but I was a tuna. Those were some colossi of people. Silence! Once in the jaw, every tooth was healthy. He was over two meters tall. Uncle Savo, who was two meters tall, measured the bone on his legs and crossed his shin 3-4 centimeters “.

Vlado is in narrative heat, I am in fire. It seems to me that at that moment the fire started.

What are we going to do, I ask. I need to see it as soon as possible. ‘

And when would you?

Me right now as far as I’m concerned!

Vlado looks at me for a few moments. I interrupted him at work today. He wanted to plant a tuber, but he left it all behind because of me and Kosier’s past. He looks at me a little longer, then says. You know what! Come this morning, and we’ll go there.

‘I want God so, I retaliate. There I am about nine.

We hung out a little more, and then I left for Podgorica. It was just like I was flying on a carpet over Old Montenegro

Staying with history

What about Francisco Choek from “One Hundred Years of Solitude”? Vlado did not tell me about the “colossi” in order to impress me (and even if he did!), But because the story of the past is at the very core of our being. Gadamer has long taught us that tradition carries us in its bosom. Narrative basically means evoking and “alienating” through a deep intimacy with history – through which we learn more about ourselves. And we get better.

I secured myself three times that night upon my return from Kosijer to arrive at the agreed hour. Moreover, I got up earlier, as if I were going to a ceremony. It was as if I had a hunch that something significant was going to happen. I set off an hour and a half earlier via Meteriz, Češljar, Đalac and Štitar. I stopped at the beginning of Đinović to make better pictures of Veprulja in the morning sun. And they turned out really well. Saša Čilikov told me that Lazar Pejović traveled at night to Berane only to take pictures of Đurđe’s Pillars in the morning light.

Ćeraza

I arrive in Kosijere before nine. The Radovics have been on their feet for a long time. We drink coffee and talk. It’s time to move. Vlado has been taking a kosier since he did not separate for those two days. We go uphill on the west side of Kupuljara, along the asphalt road towards Mikulići, Tomići and Orašani. We climb the serpentines for about ten minutes, and then break out into Frašenac over the pass. Then we descend a few kilometers and turn towards Orašani, the road that leads to Sokolski krši from the west. After two hundred meters Vlado tells me to stop. Next to the road is a larger excavation-maidan. Well, this is where Ivan Crnojević took the mill for Soko-grad from. Because, he has no choice but to take it out without resistance, says Vlado.

What is the name of this place?

Yesterday, he retaliates. He then explains to me that “mulina is humus, the sand is fine and yellowish.” “It was used to make cakes,” he says. “Klak is mixed lime with muline.”

Ždrvnji

We descend a few hundred meters and reach Seliste, the hamlet of Orasana. We stop next to a larger stone house. That part is called Dardaza. Vlado leads me to the other side of that building, where the remains of several buildings, blackened with age, are located. He shows me large hewn blocks around the front door. “My grandmother brought all this on the ropes. She had three breasts. ” He then shows an object in which there were “grinders” – grinders with which people ground by hand. “It simply came to our notice then. We wait until it is ground by hand. “

Wicker

We continue towards the other side of the road, where the main part of the settlement is. Everything is well overgrown with bushes. Vlado says that the church is on that side as well. That news lifts my spirits. It almost makes my stomach hot. Because, this is where what I hope could be hidden. The missing element that would complete the “chain”. The remains of the settlement extend in the form of a semicircle. We break through the old village road, through the branches, along the very edge of the hill. We pass a few enclosures, then through the bushes again. We walked more than a hundred meters. This seems like an eternity to me.

Church

We finally arrive at the other end of the settlement. Well, that’s where your church is, says Vlado. A wave of “electricity” passes along my spine, so it climbs all the way to my temples. I radiate. As I slowly turn my gaze in the direction of the church, I squeeze into the “inner guard.” But it is not seen well, for a larger bush has been obstructed in that direction. I walk around it and look up slightly. Ahhhh! In front of the entrance, at a distance of three or four meters, I see the rest of the masonry supporting pillar. Another church from the time of Stefanica Crnojević! A stone falls from my heart. So a wave of energy sweeps over me again. Vlado, man, are you aware…

(Twenty-third sequel in next Sunday’s issue)

Gallery

1 / 5 Photo: Slobodan Čukić